Join our mailing list for new arrivals, exclusive discounts, and more.

Rolex Bracelet Guide | Jubilee vs Oyster

Rolex bracelet variety (Oyster vs Jubilee)

 Photo Rolex Oyster and Jubilee bracelets in steel, two-tone and solid gold

 

Discovering your bracelet preference

Considering your first Rolex is an exciting journey! Determining the right bracelet is a great starting point.

Trying on the various models eases the decision making process. Each thickness and diameter wears slightly different depending on the bracelet and wrist size.

 

Rolex Oyster vs Jubilee bracelet
Photo Rolex Ceramic Submariner "Hulk" 116610LV with split Jubilee and Oyster

 

A large percentage of Rolex are paired with either the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet.

Many prospective buyers pose the question "Jubilee or Oyster?"

This Beloved Watch Journal was inspired by a recent Facebook post created by yours truly.

 

Check out my Facebook for daily watch content www.Facebook.com/RolexCollector

 

 

 

Rolex Jubilee or Oyster Graph

( Above photograph Rolex Jubilee vs Oyster bracelet infographic 24% Oyster and 76% Jubilee )
Rolex Datejust Jubilee vs Oyster Discussion Facebook Photo Rolex Facebook Post Jubilee or Oyster? Poll

 

Current Rolex Model & Bracelet List

(Several models used both bracelets through out there production, this list only covers current production)

The Oyster bracelet is used on the following Rolex sport/dress models.

  •  Rolex Air-King
  • Rolex Date
  • Rolex Datejust
  • Rolex Day-Date
  • Rolex Daytona
  • Rolex GMT-Master
  • Rolex Milgauss
  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual
  • Rolex Sea-Dweller
  • Rolex Sky-Dweller
  • Rolex Submariner
  • Rolex Yacht-Master

  • The Jubilee bracelet is used on the following Rolex sport/dress models.

    • Rolex Datejust
    • Rolex GMT-Master

    Vintage GMT-Masters, Daytonas, Explorers and Day-Dates were offered with the Jubilee style bracelet.

    (Posted below is a vintage advertisement with an early Day-Date 6611 or 6611B sporting a gold Jubilee bracelet.)

     

     

    Bracelet Review | Rolex Jubilee

    Rolex Jubilee Bracelets Two Tone & Steel

    (Photograph above : Four Rolex Jubilee Bracelets new style and old style clasp & link)

     

    Ju·bi·lee | Celeration & Anniversary

    The first Rolex manufactured bracelet was the Jubilee bracelet in 1945. This in-house bracelet celebrated 40 years of Rolex. The Jubilee bracelet was originally released only on the solid gold Datejust.

     

    Jubilee noun

    A special anniversary of an event, especially one celebrating twenty-five or fifty years of a reign or activity.

    The in-house Jubilee bracelet offered more diversity and a new way to display the manufacturer's engineering prowess.

    Rolex began producing other models that used the Jubilee bracelet in the 1950s. 

    The bracelet would evolve with the brand and update the end links, clasp and links.

     

     

      Rolex Datejust Oyster Clasp New Style Image
     Left to right : Older style (hollow end caps/center links), Discontinued newer style (concealed clasp solid end link/links) & newest style (Oysterclasp solid end link/links).

     

    The Evolution of the Jubilee Bracelet

    The Jubilee began as a folded link bracelet with hollow end links. The folded design was then upgraded into a hollow 3 center link and solid 2 outer link design which greatly improved the durability.

    The latest design uses 5 solid inks ensuring the strongest possible structure which can withstand everyday wear.

    The older Jubilee bracelet design flaws were caused by the hollow structure. This flexible design causes more wear throughout the pressure points of the bracelet.

    Each pressure point depends on interlocking pins that connect each link. This connection is much wearer with a hollow link vs a solid link. The upgraded solid bracelet greatly improved the Jubilee bracelet's overall durability.

     

    (Photograph below mint condition older style Jubilee bracelet on Rolex Datejust 16220)

    Mint condition Rolex Jubilee bracelet in steel Rolex Datejust model 16220

     

    The hollow bracelet was cured by the solid end link (SEL) and robust solid center links. This updated bracelet far out performed the older design.

    These upgrades were first introduced with the launch of the model 63200 featuring the super jubilee with concealed clasp. 

    The concealed Jubilee clasp was later discontinued and updated to the Oysterclasp.

    The main reasons why the "Super Jubilee" was discontinued was the lack of micro adjustment capability.

     

    Rolex Old Style Folding Clasp Jubilee Bracelet Rolex Datejust 116234 with Super Jubilee Bracelet Complete Set with Card, Box, Booklets and Tags.

     

    The size of your wrist changes during cold and warm environments.

    Many collectors are upset by the removal of the beautiful super Jubilee since it's far more dressy and formal vs the updated folding clasp.

    Rolex reserves the concealed clasp to the Day-Date President bracelet. The Day-Date Pearlmaster bracelet on the Masterpiece also have a concealed clasp.

     

    Rolex SEL vs Hollow End Link Jubilee Bracelet Infographic

    Note : This end link upgrade was also given to the Oyster bracelet. This is NOT exclusive to the Jubilee.

      

    The 126XXX (126234, 126200 & 126231) is the newest iteration of the 36mm Datejust. The newest model Jubilee bracelet has a folding Oysterclasp (instead of the previous hidden clasp on the 116XXX model line).

    The change from the concealed clasp to the Oysterclasp makes the Datejust seem more like a sport model due to all other sport models having similar clasps. 

    In 2018, the Rolex GMT-Master II received a new style Jubilee bracelet with flip lock clasp. This is the first time the flip lock clasp is paired with the Jubilee bracelet.

     

    (Photo below Rolex Ceramic GMT-Master II "Batgirl" 126710BLNR with updated Jubilee flip lock bracelet)

    Rolex GMT-Master II Jubilee "Batgirl"

     

    The Jubilee bracelet has a small five-link design. The Jubilee design features three interior links secured by two outer links.

    The smaller link size in the Jubilee bracelet creates additional movement and flexibility allowing the bracelet to mold the wrist.

    This molded bracelet offers superior comfort to less common wrist sizes. The Jubilee bracelet tends to feel lighter since it uses less metal.

     

    (Photo above Rolex Datejust 16220 Mint Condition on Jubilee wrist shot) 

    Rolex Datejust 16220 Jubilee Bracelet on the wrist Image

    Rolex Jubilee Models

    (This is an abbreviated list of  bracelet references not including models smaller than 36MM)

    The Rolex Jubilee bracelet is produced in steel, yellow gold and steel, rose gold and steel, solid yellow gold and solid rose gold.

     

    Rolex Datejust & GMT-Master II

    • 62523 yellow gold & steel Jubilee bracelet with folding steel clasp
     

     

    • 6251H steel Jubilee folded link bracelet with folding steel clasp
    • 62510H steel Jubilee solid side link bracelet with folding steel clasp

     

     

     

    • 63200 steel Jubilee bracelet with concealed clasp "Super Jubilee"
    • 63600 steel Jubilee bracelet with concealed clasp "Super Jubilee" 
    • 8386/8 yellow gold jubilee bracelet with concealed yellow gold clasp

     

    The difference between the 63200 & the 63600 bracelet is the 63600 has 2 additional removable links to accommodate the female collector.

     

     

     

    • 63203 yellow gold & steel Jubilee bracelet with concealed clasp "Super Jubilee"
    • 63603 yellow gold & steel Jubilee bracelet with concealed clasp "Super Jubilee"

     

     
    • 63201 rose gold & steel Jubilee bracelet with concealed clasp "Super Jubilee"
    • 63601 yellow gold & steel Jubilee bracelet with concealed clasp "Super Jubilee"
    • 63608 solid yellow gold Jubilee bracelet with concealed clasp "Super Jubilee"
    • 6311/8 yellow gold jubilee bracelet with folding yellow gold clasp
    • 8386/8 yellow gold jubilee bracelet with concealed yellow gold clasp (super jubilee)

     

    Rolex Datejust 41

    • 62610 stainless steel Jubilee bracelet with folding clasp
    • 62613 yellow gold and steel Jubilee bracelet with two-tone folding clasp
    • 62611 everose gold and steel Jubilee bracelet with two-tone folding clasp

     

    Rolex GMT-Master II

     
    • 69200 steel Jubilee bracelet with flip lock clasp

     

    (Photographed below is a 10/10 mint condition Rolex Jubilee bracelet on a 1999 Rolex Datejust 16220)

    Rolex Stainless Steel Datejust 16220 Mint Condition Jubilee Bracelet

    In conclusion...this is what you should know about the Rolex Jubilee

    Pros

    • Jubilee design is well known to belong to a Rolex watch
    • Smaller links allow for a comfortable fit with any wrist size
    • Dress watch esthetic with formal appearance
    • Concealed clasp option is unique to the Jubilee bracelet
    • Lighter weight

    Cons

    • Slightly more prone to wear
    • More fragile than the Oyster bracelet

     

    BRACELET REVIEW | ROLEX OYSTER

     Rolex Oyster Bracelet on Rolex Yacht-Master II 116688

    Oys·ter | Marine Mollusk & Waterproof

    The Oyster bracelet is first available in 1938, three years after the first in-house Jubilee hit the market.

    Oyster noun

    Oyster is the common name for a number of different families of salt-water bivalve molluscs that live in marine or brackish habitats. 

    Rolex Oyster Submariner Bracelet 93150

    The Oyster name promotes the marketing initiatives of the Rolex Oyster case being waterproof.

    The oyster concept was revolutionary in the world of watches because of it's complete waterproofness.

    The Oyster bracelet was used on a variety of sport and dress models throughout Rolex history.

    Much like the Jubilee, the bracelet would evolve with brand and update the end links, clasp and links.

     

    Left to right : Older style (hollow end links older style folding clasp), New style (SEL solid end links new style folding clasp)
     
     
    (Above Left to right : Older style flip lock clasp, New style flip lock clasp with Glide Lock adjustment)

     

    The Evolution of the Oyster Bracelet

    The Oyster bracelet has had many improvements since it's birth. The link design, clasp functionality and hollow to solid end link were amongst the a few of the most well known updates.

    The Submariner featured the flip lock clasp up until the Glide-lock clasp was introduced in 2010. The Glide-Lock system allows for simple sizing of the bracelet up to two links worth of space.

     (Photograph below of new style Oyster bracelet with flip-lock clasp and Glide Lock adjustment)

    Rolex Oyster Flip Lock Clasp with Glide Lock Function

    The Glide-Lock clasp also assists divers who want so quickly adjust their watch to fit over their dive suit.

    Other models were given the easylink 5mm extension update which acted as a smaller adjustment that used a small folding link to extend the bracelet 

     

    The rectangular 3 link design are wide and sturdy. The robust link design is perfect for an everyday watch.

    The Oyster link fights gravity much better than the Jubilee bracelet due to less pins and connections. The Oyster bracelet tends to feel slightly heavier than the Jubilee bracelet.

    The Oyster bracelet maps the same update path as the Jubilee bracelet; clasp, link and end link improvements.

    The Oyster bracelet went from a tinny flip lock and folding clasp to a much higher quality Oysterclasp and flip lock clasp with new glide lock adjustment.

    The larger Oyster link can cause a strange fit for unique wrist sizes since you can only remove one link and use 4-6 micro adjustments (depending on newer or older style clasp, the older has 6 and the newer have 4-5) in the clasp.

    Rolex Oyster Bracelet Clasp

    Rolex Oyster Bracelet Models

    (This is an abbreviated list of bracelet references not including models smaller than 36MM)

    The Rolex Oyster bracelet is produced in steel, yellow gold and steel, rose gold and steel, solid yellow gold, solid rose gold, solid white gold and platinum.

    Rolex Datejust 36MM

     

    72600 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding steel clasp

    72601 rose gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with folding two-tone clasp

    72603 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with folding two-tone clasp

    72801 rose gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with folding two-tone clasp

    72803 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with folding two-tone clasp

    72800 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    72210 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    72213 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    Rolex Datejust 41

     

    72610 steel Oyster link bracelet with two-tone folding clasp

    72611 rose gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with two-tone folding clasp

    Rolex Sky-Dweller

    72415 solid everose gold Oyster link bracelet with everose gold clasp

    72418 solid yellow gold Oyster link bracelet with yellow gold clasp

    72223 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    72220 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    Rolex Milgauss 40MM

    72400 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    Rolex Explorer 39MM

     

    77200 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    Rolex Explorer II

    77210 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    Rolex Air-King 40MM

     

    71200 steel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp

    Rolex GMT-Master II

     

    78200 steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78203 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with two-tone flip lock clasp

    78208 solid yellow gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78209 solid white gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    79201 everose gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    79205 solid everose gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    Rolex Yacht-Master II

     

    78210 steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78211 everose gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78218 solid yellow gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78219 solid white gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    Rolex Daytona Cosmograph

    

     

    78590 steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78593 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78595 solid everose gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78596 solid platinum Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78598 solid yellow gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78599 solid white gold Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    Rolex Yacht-Master 40MM

     

    78763 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    78800 stainless steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    Rolex Ceramic Submariner Date 40MM

     

    97200 stainless steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    97203 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    97208 solid yellow gold Oyster link with flip lock clasp

    97209 solid white gold Oyster link with flip lock clasp

    Rolex Sea-Dweller 40MM

    97400 stainless steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp 

    Rolex Ceramic Sea-Dweller 43MM

    97220 stainless steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    97223 yellow gold and steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    Rolex Ceramic Deepsea Sea-Dweller 

    98210 stainless steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

    98220 stainless steel Oyster link bracelet with flip lock clasp

     

    In conclusion...this is what you should know about the Rolex Oyster

    Pros

    • Oyster design is a robust sport design perfect for heavy use and abuse
    • Larger links allow for a comfortable fit with a larger wrist size
    • Sport watch esthetic
    • Flip-lock and Folding clasp option is unique to the Oyster bracelet

    Cons

    • Bulky in fit

    Received special subscriber only pricing by signing up for our newsletter.

    Beloved Watch is here to help with any further questions regarding your bracelet choice. Feel free to call or text (302)-235-9218.

    Leave a comment

    Please note, comments must be approved before they are published